Knowledge · installation guide

How the professionals install artificial grass.

A great-looking lawn that lasts is all in the build beneath it. Here's how a proper artificial-grass installation comes together, base, drainage, joins and finish, written for Singapore's heat and monsoon rain. We design, supply and install the lot ourselves, but if you're planning a DIY job, this is the right order to work in.

What you'll need Step by step By surface DIY or pro? FAQ

Before you start

What you'll need.

The basics for a clean, durable install.

See how the professionals do it

Materials

Namgrass turf (plus ~5–10% for cuts)
Crushed aggregate & sharp sand, or drainage cells for hard surfaces
Weed membrane & edge restraints
Jointing tape & adhesive; fixing pins
Shockpad & kiln-dried sand (where needed)

Tools

Plate compactor & screeding bar
Sharp utility knife & carpet cutter
Stiff brush or power broom
Tape measure, hammer, gloves
Wheelbarrow & rake

Step by step

The installation, in order.

Eight stages from bare ground to a finished lawn.

Plan & measure

Measure the area and add about 5–10% for cuts and joins. Plan the roll direction so all the pile leans the same way, and note where water needs to fall away.

Measure length × width
Plan pile direction
Order a little extra
Check the fall for drainage

Clear the area

On soil, remove the existing turf and excavate roughly 75–100mm. On a hard surface like concrete or a balcony, simply clean it down, no digging needed.

Strip existing grass/soil
Or clean the hard surface
Remove roots & debris

Build the base

On ground, lay and compact a crushed-aggregate sub-base, then a layer of sharp sand or granite dust, screeded level to the fall. On slabs, balconies and rooftops, lay drainage cells instead.

Compact aggregate sub-base
Sharp sand / granite dust blinding
Drainage cells on hard decks
Grade to fall, then level

Membrane & edges

Lay a weed membrane to keep the base clean, and fix solid edge restraints so the lawn stays put and crisp at the borders.

Weed-control membrane
Edge restraints / timber
Square up the perimeter

Shockpad (play areas)

For playgrounds and childcare, lay a ProGame shockpad over the base, specified to the equipment's critical fall height, before the turf goes down.

Critical-fall-height rated
Lays over the base
Softer, safer landing

Roll out & settle

Roll the turf out, all pile facing one way, and let it acclimatise so it relaxes flat, important in Singapore's heat, before any cutting.

Pile all one direction
Let it relax flat
Avoid stretching

Cut & join

Trim neatly to the shape, then join lengths with jointing tape and adhesive (or hidden stitching) so the seams disappear into the pile.

Trim to shape
Jointing tape + adhesive
Hide the seams

Secure, infill & finish

Fix the edges with pins or adhesive. Add kiln-dried sand infill where needed (mainly sports), then power-brush the pile upright and rinse. Done.

Pin / glue the edges
Sand infill if required
Brush up & rinse

Pro technique

The trick to an invisible seam.

The join between two lengths is where a DIY lawn usually gives itself away. The fix is in how you cut the two edges — one long, one short — so the pile folds over the seam and hides it.

1Cut in the gutter. On both pieces, run the knife along the backing between two stitch rows — never through a row, or you leave a bald strip at the join.
2One long edge, one short. Trim one edge tight to the backing (the short side) and leave the mating edge with an extra row of longer yarn (the long side).
3Butt, tape and fold over. Join the two backings over jointing tape with no gap; the longer yarn lies across the shorter side and covers the seam line completely.
4Brush across the join. Power-brush against the pile so the fibres from both sides blend, and the seam vanishes.

Make it stick for life

The Tiger glue trick.

A folded seam only stays invisible if it never lifts. We bond ours with Tiger Brand Special Adhesive — a solvent-based contact glue that grips the backing and holds flat through years of Singapore heat, humidity and foot traffic. The whole trick is in how you use a contact adhesive, not how much.

1Clean and dry both faces. Wipe the turf backing and the jointing tape free of dust and moisture — a solvent adhesive won't grab a damp or dirty surface, and that's where lifting starts.
2Coat both sides, thin and even. Spread a thin film on the tape and the underside of the grass. Contact glue bonds to itself — one side alone will never hold.
3Wait for it to go tacky. Leave both coats a few minutes until they're touch-dry — the glue should string but not transfer to your finger. This flash-off is the step DIY jobs skip, and it's what makes the bond instant and permanent.
4Press, weight and leave. Fold the seam together with no gap, press the full length firmly (a roller or weighted board), then keep traffic off until it cures. Done right, it holds flat for the lawn's entire lifespan.

By surface

Soil, concrete or rooftop.

The base changes with what's underneath, the turf finish stays the same.

On soil

Excavate+ aggregate base

Dig out, compact a crushed sub-base, blind with sharp sand, then membrane and turf. Graded to fall for drainage.

GardensLawns

On concrete

Drainagecells / sand

No digging, lay drainage cells (or a thin sand base) over the slab so water clears, then the turf goes straight on top.

PatiosDecks

Roof & balcony

Cells+ protect

Lightweight drainage cells carry water to the outlet and protect the waterproofing, with the turf cut neatly to the space.

RooftopsBalconies

Singapore tip: always build in a fall and proper drainage. It clears monsoon downpours fast, stops water pooling for mosquitoes, and keeps the lawn usable within minutes of the rain.

DIY or professional?

When to call us in.

Fine to DIY

Small, flat, simple areas
Decorative patches or temporary layouts
Where drainage isn't critical

Best left to a pro

Gardens, rooftops & balconies
Anything needing falls & drainage
Seamless joins over larger areas
Play areas needing shockpads
To keep the 10-year warranty intact

See what a hard install really takes.

Getting tonnes of sand into a walled garden or turf up to a rooftop with no lift is where DIY stops. Watch how our team handles the access problems most installers turn down.

The difficulty of DIY

Rather we handled it?

We design, supply and install every layer ourselves, base, drainage, shockpad and turf, so it's done right and covered by one 10-year warranty. Explore the products, or read the buying guide first:

Buying guide Artificial grass Drainage cells See our projects

Questions

Installation questions.

Can I install artificial grass myself?

Small, simple areas can be a DIY job. For gardens, balconies, rooftops or anything needing drainage, level falls and seamless joins, professional installation protects the finish, the drainage and the warranty.

How long does installation take?

A typical residential lawn takes one to a few days depending on size, access and base work. We confirm a schedule after a site visit.

Can artificial grass be laid over concrete or tiles?

Yes, over drainage cells (or a suitable base) it works on concrete, paving, balconies and rooftops, staying level and free-draining while protecting the surface beneath.

How is drainage handled in Singapore's heavy rain?

The base is graded to fall and the turf's porous backing lets water through; on hard surfaces drainage cells carry it to the outlets, so there's no pooling for mosquitoes and the lawn is usable again within minutes.

Do I need sand infill?

For most homes and balconies, no, non-infill turf is cleaner and softer. Sand infill is mainly used on sports surfaces to support the fibres under heavy use.

See all FAQs